Fashion Contributor, Amira Arasteh, looks back on the two most memorable collections by Qasimi at London Fashion Week.
“Every Sun Has To Set”
Loose-fit tailoring, sandy tones and berry hues were all prominent in the Fall 2020 collection Qasimi showcased during February’s London Fashion Week. The show presented the last designs of Khalid al Qasimi, who sadly passed away last year. His sister, Hoor al Qasimi bravely took upon herself the task to oversee the brand’s participation on the runway this season, as well as stepping in as creative director.
The collection was beautiful; harnessing styles from the Middle East and combining them with Qasmi’s draped fabrics. It was an emotional show too; I saw so many glassy eyes and sombre looks; everyone was aware that Khalid had taken the reigns when it came to the mood board of the collection but that the clothes had been finished by the head of design (Adam Rice). There was almost a standing ovation when Hoor stepped out after the final walk through, signalling her official succession as creative director of the brand.
The plum tones nodded to the darker feel of the collection, perfect for autumn months and fitting of the mood within the show space. My breath is always held during a Qasimi show but the atmosphere was so tense and poignant. As well as displaying a case of modest fashion, the Fall /Winter 2020 collection drew inspiration from animals and wildlife, with certain pieces being heavily influenced by tribal elements.
The previous collection
My mind drifted back to the previous summer collection – shown in June in London. The utility trend ran strong, merging a feel from the mountains of the Middle East and the Saharan desert. Politically and culturally-inspired, there is a military vibe to the clothes, as well as as huge nods to the modest fashion and Middle Eastern fashion. My favourite aspect was the creation of a head piece using a scarf and cap, a contemporary take on a religious custom. A catwalk of coffee accurately resembled dusty roads and sandy paths and my eyes could not turn away from the runway.
Hoor’s first ‘solo’ collection will be revealed at June’s London Fashion Week, for Spring/Summer 2021 and the brand’s aesthetic is expected to keep tributing a modern take on Middle Eastern style.